Puglia, Italy

I had been dreaming of a family holiday in Puglia for years. At last I journeyed there, for the first time, together with Victor and Jivan. Our heritage is Italian and we are all equally obsessed with Italy. The food, the language, the people, the agriculture, the culture, the slow way of living, and of course the coastline resonate deeply with all three of us. This faraway travel was also a time for us to connect, away from the hustle of our urban existence, outside of commitments, work and friends—it was beyond cherished time. Each day, each breakfast, lunch, dinner, and everything in between, we were together, connecting! Puglia has so much to offer so I will break it down the way the trip unraveled.

We began at Borgo Egnazia, which included hands-down the most magical first night I have ever experienced on any holiday, at the Festa Del Borgo. What followed was our time at the agriculturally- and historically-abundant hotel Masseria San Domenico. From here we explored day trips to the breathtaking and iconic Polignano De Mare, the white city that is Ostuni, and the architecturally-enchanting Alberobello, which captured my heart like no other.

Long-Awaited Stay: Borgo Egnazia

Our Puglia adventure began at Borgo Egnazia. The hotel had been at the tippy-top of my Puglia wish list for years—she is pricey but worth it. We stayed just two nights, to have the experience. “Borgo” means village and a village it is. I could get lost within the various buildings’ walls, all carved from limestone, with their vibrant and fragrant bouganvillia- and rosemary-adorned archways.

On the property there are so many delicious eateries highlighting the local Puglian cuisine, from a casual trattoria to a higher-end formal restaurant. Wherever you go, be sure to ask for the famous almond iced coffee, caffè leccese. Also make your way to the beach club and restaurant Cala Masciola, just a three- to five-minute golf cart ride away. The eatery provided without doubt my favorite fare from the trip. I have eaten some of the best vongole all throughout Italy, but here they took it to a whole new status.

As for activities, Cala Masciola beach club offered sunbeds on the sea as well as water sports, which were great for Jivan. The pool is grand, to say the least, and beyond swoony. The Vair Spa was newly designed and reimagined, and certainly enticing—I experienced the new aromatic offering and spa treatment. Even the shop exhibited thoughtful attention. It was populated with flowing, dreamy linen dresses and rattan accessories, most of which the staff wore. From design to execution, all was so beautifully curated!

We arrived on the very night of the Festa del Borgo—a sensorial celebration steeped in local tradition, over the top and charming at once. The piazza came alive with street performers, animated musicians, artisans practicing ancient crafts, and the most delicious Puglian food. The festivities only got better as the party went on—so much pasta, even more wine, and crazy fun was had with my guys! The night concluded as we danced on our rooftop to a one-man band— we named him “Pipo”. The song he played will forever be burned in my memory. From the iced coffee to the mouthwatering vongole to the floor-grazing linen dresses and buzzing festa, all of my senses were heightened at Borgo Egnazia.

Echanted Stay: Masseria San Domenico

Next we moved over to Masseria San Domenico and this little lady has never been more in her element. The property is an oasis of a 14th-century farmhouse turned five-star luxury resort—the first masseria, or farm complex, of its kind to be turned into a deluxe boutique hotel. Steeped in history, the tallest building on the expanse was used by the Knights of Malta as a watchtower. Here we were immersed in a century-old olive grove and yet steps from the Adriatic. The ancient courtyards were exactly the respite we all needed. The vast freeform pool overlooked the restored buildings was surrounded by the olive groves and manicured grounds—consummately calming.

In my wildest dreams I could not imagine more fertile and vibrant land. It was one where I could literally pluck ripened figs from the tree outside my room and savor it for breakfast with fresh ricotta and honey. (Yes, this really happened — daily!) I discovered that there in Puglia the temperature could drastically change in a single day, sometimes by the hour. This means as the fruits ripen they constantly expand and contract to adapt to the shifting climate, thus cultivating more intense flavor! Fascinating—they are a pure product of their environment, and their flavor provides a strong sense of place.

From fresh fish to olive oil pressed from the Masseria San Domenico’s own groves and much more, the delicacies of the grounds and surrounding area are vast. These local spoils are put to delicious use in the hotel’s eateries. Under its dramatic 18th-century arched and vaulted ceiling, the San Domenico restaurant offers traditional, seasonal Puglian fare. If you fancy something even fancier, make your way down to the edge of the water and visit restaurant La Nassa. The beachside fine dining establishment fittingly specializes in seafood, with an emphasis on traditional preparations.

While much is notable at Masseria San Domenico, the spa is certainly among the most eminent features. In fact, during my stay I chose to indulge my body in not one but two treatments. The hotel is known for its thalassotherapy, which is the use of seawater for therapeutic purposes. The spa’s practice takes advantage of the mineral-rich seawater and seaweed from the nearby Adriatic Sea, incorporating the two elements for purifying effect. I opted for one such thalassotherapy service. My other treatment, an olive oil envelopment and chromotherapy, similarly took advantage of the native abundance. The practice entails an olive oil scrub to exfoliate and smooth the skin, a chromotherapy, or color therapy, body pack to promote harmony, and an olive lipogel to nourish those newly-silky-smooth gams.

With a trip that had been twinkling in my mind’s eye for years finally in fruition, I can say that Puglia delivered all I had hoped, plus wild, unspoiled, and altogether new experiences my family and I could never have otherwise dreamt. With a renewed sense of wonder, below I share all the highlights and unexpected gems from our trip, including my fave restaurants, gelato, tour guides, and more!

Alberobello

Ostuni